NEW YORK FASHION (2012)

 "Hanne Gaby Odiele has this sunny, exuberant personality and a relaxed and cool sense of style," Derek Lam said. "Over the years, she has become sort of a muse for me." She has retained that role for the designer's new 10 Crosby line. After starring in and helping style the first lookbook, Odiele made an encore appearance for Spring. And while 10 Crosby is only in its second season, a few things have already become clear about Lam's latest project: He means business (the company expects 10 Crosby to soon eclipse the main collection, in both sales and scope), and he isn't cutting any corners. The design team puts a premium on the quality of its materials, using only the crispest of poplins, painted linens that hold their shape, and waxed cotton that looks like leather.

There was a bold playfulness to the bright, diamond-print separates here, as well as the Saint James-esque striped pants. One of the coolest looks in the lineup was the graphic, color-blocked tunic worn over a pencil skirt. Lam calls it "the new suit." It should transition easily from day to night—ideal for his customer, who presumably has a calendar jam-packed with both work and social functions.